Split, Croatia
Gale force winds howled and whipped the beach café umbrellas. Mate, our local manager, warned not to take this end of summer storm (called “burra”) lightly—it was time to stay inside, close the shutters and put the duvets on our beds—hunker down! This storm marked that summer was over here in Split, Croatia where we’ve been living and working across from a long stretch of beach, playground to locals and European tourists alike.
For the past month, along with my “tramily” (that’s tribe + family), I explored Split’s wonders namely the Dalmatian Palace filled with cafes, restaurants and clubs. We zip lined, toured local islands, visited natural waterfall wonders and world heritage sites, dog shelters, homeless shelters, local cooking schools, white water rafting rivers and flung ourselves off cliffs. The beautiful, nearby towns such as Mostar in Bosnia and Dubrovnik beckoned as well since they were just too close to pass up. Frankly, it’s been non- stop. An exciting way to bust through the tourist traps and get a taste of the local lifestyle.
For me, living in an apartment across from a long, picturesque beach on the Adriatic Sea and within a 45-minute walk to the old town of Split (think Palace) has been a thrill. Truly a departure from my regular life. Just not being car-centric anymore – only walking, taking Uber and tour buses or boats to get around has been an adjustment and hopefully good for my health.
For me, the sea and local islands will always be the star attraction of Croatia. I’ve tried to swim everyday sensing that this sea is so special in how it cradles me and helps me float effortlessly for hours. I want to swim out—and keep going at times...but then I remember I must start work at 1pm. The beaches took some getting used to with their tiny penetrating pebble rocks –hard on soft feet. I loved the people watching social scene there—a great way to kick back and observe local antics.
The island tours I took were fun as the islands all have a natural beauty, cool cafes and natural beaches ready to refresh. Everyone in our group always had a bathing suit under their clothes—just in case there’s a beach on the way. I loved the island of Hvar where the international jet set park their mega yachts, hang out, party and preen. The fortress adds to the interest of the place as does the Carpe Diem bar, famous for its late night parties.
Believe it or not, the fish farm island tour really made a big impression. Quite surreal swimming in huge sea bass tanks set in the sea, then within an hour pigging out on their freshly grilled bodies with fresh bread, garlic and olive oil…and wine. Ok, to be honest, Igor, the speedo-clad owner and our host also made it a memorable day for the ladies in the group.
A small group of us travelled into the mountains near Split to learn to cook Croatian style. A lovely grandmother who used to run her place as a restaurant, taught us how to make (Sarma-think Croatian cabbage rolls) with Swiss Chard boiled with potatoes –and touched with olive oil and lemon juice. It was charming to tour their gardens, wine cellar, smoke house and play in their bocce ball pit. Let me just say the experience was quite different from a cooking class at the Cordon Bleu!
Not all the high moments were on a planned tour—for me, and I think also for my friends here, we had great times with small groups hiking, riding bikes, jumping off cliffs, lounging on the beach, drinking wine late at night, checking out new restaurants and exploring the bars in the Palace. Is it strange that I mention the Palace so much? Well, it did actually become our second home as so much happens in the palace—day and night. It is the main draw here in Split and it truly is one of their treasures—among many other things. Did you know they filmed some of Game of Thrones here—yup, in the Palace?
The food here been tasty but they do not actually have a strong Croatian food identity. Much of their history involves the Italians so pasta and gnocchi are popular. When I think of Croatian food I think of fresh grilled sea bass and seafood like scampi, fresh figs, prosciutto, olive oil and ajvar sauce made from peppers. The wine feels young and a bit rough around the edges for this big oaky chardonnay lover—so my quest continues to find a favourite wine. However, if you love gin and tonics, try swapping limes for cucumbers. That’s Croatian
Our final Remote Year “good-bye to Croatia” party started with a sunset cruise on the Adriatic Sea and ended up at a bar, yes you got it, at the Palace. A happy night before we sadly pack and say so long to the summer beach lifestyle and prepare to transition to city living in Prague.
Hvala (thank you), Split.